Bespoke Suit: What you need to consider before buying

It is easy to get trapped in the thrills of the buying process and overlook the critical components that determine whether your bespoke suit is going to be an ideal fit in every way.

Fancy-schmancy is not always best. Individuals commonly make the error of purchasing the most high level suit they are able to conjure up before having covered the classic must have suits. Less is more, as the old expression goes. Every wardrobe needs streamlined, simple-to-fit colours like charcoal, navy blue not to mention, classic black. We urge you begin trying out the seasonable colours only once you’ve mastered the classics.

Closely-knit stripes function best on slim-line frameworks, while broader stripes add a thin shape into a broader framework. Vertical stripe fabrics can be used to make any framework look taller, as the top to bottom design will attract the eye up and elongate the appearance of the suit. Next, mind the break, this is the dent in the crease of your trousers. Customers should go for 1-2 breaks.

Press the buttons that are right. If you are slender, we advocate a one-button profile. Everyone else will suit a two-button profile no matter who you are. Double breasted isn’t reserved for larger gentlemen but instead fits those with character.

Examine your tailor. Customers generally do not realise the significance of selecting the appropriate tailor. Like deciding on the best Dentist, it is vital to at all times to have a relationship with your tailor whereby you can call on them to advise you on and provide you with everything you need wardrobe wise. You should get on like a house on fire with your tailor. If not – get a new one!

The use of a canvas. It is vital that you inquire about this. Ask your tailor if they use a full, half or fused canvas in their bespoke suits. Either of the first two are fine, avoid the later at all costs. Initially earmarked for bespoke suits but now used by regular retailers are working cuffs – It was bound to occur when ‘bespoke effect’ details became fashionable. On the other hand, the mass manufacturers tend not to stitch these details by hand, instead choosing a machine stitched option that uses bigger stitches which are wider in stark contrast to a hand finished button hole which is a thing of beauty.

If you are aiming to get a high end suit, ensure only 100% natural materials are used by your tailor. Avoid cheap suits. Ask yourself the question… How is it possible I’m being provided with such a premium product for such a tiny price. The answer as it always has been will be: If it’s too good to be true it usually is. Wool, cotton, camel hair, vicuna, cashmere, etc. These are all natural fibers that a suit can and should be made of.

As a complete  bespoke suit should be gathered together from scratch and is designed to the very best standards this process will take time. We often encounter customers who desire suits in two days. This challenge wont be accepted by any professional tailor however in this day and age we are able to deliver a bespoke suit in just 3 weeks.

Lloyd Hall

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